Tuesday, November 15, 2005

IT'S THE FALL EDITION--JUST IN TIME FOR WINTER!

The Fall Edition of the blog is here at last.

With all the things to do for a 2 month trip to Salt Cay; photo work; writing; the blog got clogged. So here's what I have...I'll do some antique photos in the early 2006 edition.
The happy couple at Windmills Plantation

Copyright Fresno Chile Pepper Co 2005
August 26, 2005 heralded the first Islander wedding in 8 years at St. John’s Church. Pat and Herbert Simmons’ daughter Lourissa (Nish), and Constable Colville Garrick wed in an early morning ceremony.

The last wedding to take place in St. John’s of local children was Miss Netty’s daughter eight years previous.

It was a joyous event, followed by a feast at the Salt Shed.

Most everyone on the island and Grand Turk arrived in their finery. The hats were not to be outdone nor the hairstyles. It seems the long "curly" look is in on the ladies side.
Easily THE hat of the wedding, worn by Mrs. Rosalie Glinton

Copyright Fresno Chile Pepper Co 2005
Miss Rosalie Glinton had to have the largest and most spectacular hat and outfit. Rosalie’s hat looked like it could land small aircraft and was in a brilliant aqua to match her dress.

The most gracious look, I think, went to Leila Robinson. Miss Netty wasn’t to be outdone either as was Kathryn Simmons...all of whom are pictured here.

As for the bride and groom, you can see for yourself what a striking couple they made.
You can see the entire wedding collection at
http://www.shutterfly.com/pro/FresnoChile/SaltCayWedding
Pat and Herbert Simmons at their

Copyright Fresno Chile Pepper Co 2005
Tradewinds Mural

A recent guest, Mary of Palm Springs, friends with Deb and a returnee, painted a great coral reef mural on the Victoria side of Tradewinds. It really turned out fabulous and everyone on the island was thrilled with the donation by Mary. Allee/Anyee became a painter himself, helping Mary with the coral details.

DC Dottis Arthur was also thrilled with the work that Mary did on her vacation to Salt Cay and her artistic donation. DC Arthur said it was going to give her something beautiful to look at on her drive home.

And speaking of drives home by the DC, Mrs. Arthur took delivery of the new DC’s van last week. It’s white again, and brand new. The nurse will inherit the old van it appears.
I couldn’t believe how fast Lew Tide can arrive, unload and leave the White House dock area. Pretty impressive.

Sarah’s Closes

I failed to include in the previous blog the fact that Sarah’s Shopping Center, Mall and Garden Center are now closed. The liquor store, thank God, remains open, but not on Tuesdays.
Cee’s was putting in large glass cold boxes and plans to carry more in the way of perishables and frozen foods apparently. R&R Cash and Carry seems to have been the death knell for Sarah’s as they continue to have more dependable stock on the shelves.

Grand Turk

The Carnival Cruise Line Village, Dock and overall mess is proceeding straightaway. It is just unfathomable what the boats and influx of such a huge amount of tourists is going to be. Rumor has it the world’s largest Margaritaville Bar will be in the village.

I try not to editorialize...really I do. But this is one thing we’d better, as lovers of Salt Cay, keep an eye on. I know we’ll get some boat people...but if they come over for 3 hours, buy a bottle of water, pet a donkey, go to the bathroom a couple of times, wash their hands and faces, and then decide the $20 T-shirt is too much..then drop their bottle on the ground and leave...it isn’t worth it. Not to mention letting the cruise ship companies try to "develop" Salt Cay to their liking.

All I am saying is that we need to keep an eye on what is happening with the ships, growth and how it affects our island and the island’s future.

We really need to ask ourselves if we want to be like Grand Turk, Cozumel, Antigua...or do we want to be Parrot Cay, Jumby Bay and such. In other words, staying aloof of the crowds and looking to the quiet, peaceful traveler. I suspect the folks who loved Grand Turk will move on to Salt Cay to find the quiet dive life they used to have.

There was some news this summer in the local press about Spirit Air flying direct flights from Ft. Lauderdale to Grand Turk and that is now confirmed. Plus Spirit is going to start flying out of Dallas/FtWorth soon to link up to Ft. Lauderdale and the Caribbean. Let’s hope American decides to keep up with the Spirit.

Check out their web site as they plan to start flying in February–ergo when the cruise ships arrive.

BUT, Spirit Air will not fly pets. Obviously they aren’t interested in Marley or Maggie’s business.

And USAirways, now owned by America West, is not allowing pets. That may be because America West had such a dismal on time, if at all, arrival rate, they can’t risk putting a pet on board. America West flew Fresno to Tucson/Phoenix, and it was not unusual for the flight to never arrive, and be rescheduled for the next day–usually when a load was light. Flexibility in flying America West meant having an extra day on BOTH sides of the trip. Let’s hope that improves with USAirways in the mix.

Speaking Of Pets

In our recent Times Of The Islands article on traveling with your pets, I mentioned K9 Quencher for pets. This an electrolyte additive for water.

K9 Quencher sent Marley some samples and I think it really does help with their heat recovery. What it does is stimulates them to drink more water when they might be a little overloaded with fatigue and heat. It also has a "gatorade" like effect in replenishing their electrolytes when heat has sapped them.

So, we’re going to try it on those beach walks and when Marley is really hot and tired. Heat illness in dogs, (stroke and exhaustion for example) is a serious issue if you are taking your pet to Salt Cay–if you’re thirsty imagine them—they are wearing a fur coat and can only dissipate heat through their paws and tongue.

Folks

Everyone seems to be okay on island. Sammy and Ma Lucy Simmons played accordion and sang for me again this trip. What a pair. You should have seen her dance the Heel-Toe Polka while Sammy played.

Miss Netty told me during her oral history interview that she intends to stay on Salt Cay as that is where her life is. She’ll save Provo and living with her children for when she cannot take care of herself or her home. Let’s hope that is a long way off. She seems fine and talks of "Sherlock" easily, but obviously misses him greatly.

In her interview she talked about meeting him and "falling in love" that first time they really met and talked at a garden party–remember, Salt Cay was much more populated. To be South took some effort if you lived in the North, which the Talbot brothers did. He went to sea and would be gone for 12 months and home for 3 months. The cycle always seemed to involve her greeting him at the door with a new baby.

Netty was a fascinating interview and I cannot wait to work on her tape. She may be profiled in Times Of The Island this winter.

I also interviewed Holton Dickenson—Poley. Another interesting man. His wife was his childhood sweetheart as well. He knew when he was in school that she as going to be his wife.
When his dad died suddenly, he was 19. He had to become a salt raker within a matter of days after his passing. His father drowned on Saturday and Monday he was in the ponds. He raked for several years before he got the opportunity to use the trade craft of carpentry he’d been taught in his younger years in school. Then he got a job offer to be on the Dutch ships and left for sea.

He commented too on the cycle...coming home to his wife and a new baby after every trip. He laughed and smiled at the thought of those years.

Do you know what a "whomper" is?

Whompers were boots, really more of a sandal, the salt rakers made out of old truck tires. They cut them up and tied them around their feet to protect against the brine and the clay bottoms of the salina. On a hot day, Poley said it was really, really hard work. They were out there when the sun came up and left when the sun went down in the summer. The pond water was extremely hot and not at all "refreshing" while standing in the hot sun. All for 2 shillings, 6 pence a day...about 56 cents.

He talked about the elder Mr. Harriott, Howard. His wife, Winnie, was very nice and gave the workers food when she could. They lived in the Brown House. Mr. Harriott couldn’t see out of his left eye so everyone who had any sense stayed on his left side so he couldn’t see what they were doing...so did Mrs. Harriott.

Anyway, the stories are marvelous and I’ll try to pass them on as time goes by.
St. John's new paint job--and no they didn't put underground wires in--that is the wonder of Photoshop.

Copyright Fresno Chile Pepper Co 2005
Rosalie Harriott

I traveled to Crowsnest Pass, Alberta Canada in October to visit Rosalie Harriott where has lived for many years.

I spent three days interviewing Rosalie and copying photographs from her collection. I learned a great deal, and connected a lot of "dots" about the salt industry and the Turks Islands.
Brown House/Sunnyside And The Legendary "Salt Barons"

The Brown House was bought by the Harriott’s in the late 1800's for Howard Harriott and his first wife, Rosalie. Rosalie died quite young of TB, after giving birth to three children, Franklyn, Gladys and Natalie. He thereafter married Winnie Rigby.

Daniel (Niel) Harriott, the elder brother of Howard, lived in the White House. The Brown House was then named "Sunnyside". With the untimely, early death of Niel in 1912. The White House was closed for at least 10 years and no one resided there. Niel’s widow returned to Grand Turk.
The White House was reopened in the early 30's when Franklyn and his bride Marjorie Durham (of South Caicos), came to Salt Cay to live. According to "The Bermudan", a newspaper reporting their honeymoon, they were to "return home where they will constitute one half of Salt Key’s white population".

Franklyn was Rosalie’s father, and the last of the salt proprietors. Franklyn’s sisters were Gladys Hinson Harriott, a "maiden aunt" and Natalie Harriott Dunn, who is the grandmother of Tim and Jonathon Dunn. Natalie married Reverend Howard Dunn and had 2 sons, Michael and Ian with him.

Franklyn Harriott installed electric lighting and a bathroom in the White House. The downstairs kitchen remained until one of the cooks set the place on fire. At that point, a bedroom on the main floor was converted to a kitchen with a kerosene cooker being used. Probably about as safe as the fire kitchen down below.

Howard Harriott died in a drowning incident at towards the end of World War II. While on Grand Turk for a salt industry meeting, he insisted on returning to Salt Cay late in the day and in bad weather. He returned in a boat with 3 oarsmen—yes, rowing from Grand Turk—wearing a 3 piece suit and shoes–not good swimming wear.

The boat capsized in the area north of Salt Cay where the channel meets the shallows. Manuel Simmons, a "good man" according to Rosalie, perished with Howard Harriott. The other two oarsmen managed to save the boat and swim it the five miles to Salt Cay in the rough sea.
Winnie, Howard’s widow then left Salt Cay and returned to Grand Turk where she too was originally from.

Sunnyside then was closed. A trade ensued through the years whereby the White House was traded to the Dunn’s for Sunnyside. Sunnyside was then sold and the progression of owners began that continues to this day–and it has returned to being called the Brown House–a name that even Rosalie cannot explain.

Salt Barons

The term salt baron is one that Rosalie had never heard of until her return to Salt Cay in 1995. There was more than one salt proprietor on Salt Cay and no one was a "baron". The Harriott’s were the largest proprietors of ponds, but they weren’t barons.

Wealth was really relative. The Harriott’s were the only "whites" on the island, and had many things that most people didn’t have. They had "stuff" the Islanders did not have. Pay was relative to what the industry paid. But compared to what other people of the then "modern" world had, it wasn’t much. In reality, the depression was really the death knell of the Turks Islands salt industry.

When Franklyn Harriott came to Salt Cay live in the White House, it was 1931. The depression was still very real. When the depression let up, war in Europe was going on. Remember, Turks Islands were part of Great Britain, so they were at war long before the US was involved.
When the US entered the war and it went to a global scale, the salt industry was really in trouble, and shipping became impossible.

Post war, when a 10,000 ton ship came to collect salt in the "modern" way, the three islands of Grand Turk, Salt Cay and South Caicos couldn’t fill the holds, and that really spelled trouble. Young men did not want to work in the salt industry for little or nothing, doing work that was beyond hard, long and boring. They left and never returned.

In 1952 the Harriott’s left Salt Cay for good, going to Canada. Nationalization of the salt industry was the beginning of the end. Though preferred shareholders, there was not enough of a future in salt to keep it a viable industry and financial ruin was inevitable. This part, for Rosalie Harriott, is very difficult to discuss and share, but as a historian, they are the facts.

Franklyn Harriott, the last of the Harriott proprietors, died of a heart attack at the age of 61 in 1960, a broken man. At 50 years of age, when he left Salt Cay, he could not get a job. He was extremely stressed which broke his health. His widow, Marjorie, lived on until 79 years of age, having owned a dress shop in Vancouver, BC and later working for a department store.
This is really just a "nutshell" of the Harriott history, and one I intend to write and research in the months to come. It is a fascinating story and one I think many people will enjoy.

Brown House Renovation

Work really is going forward on the Brown House as this goes to "press". The entire lower floor basement is exposed and the dining room floor is gone. You can look up into the house from the ground.

There are huge, 14x30x34 foot beams for the floors that arrived by Lew Tide on the morning of the wedding. These things are monsters and I’d not like to be on the crew doing this remodel. Word is the cost is going to reach $1 million when it is done. There is a dedicated Haitian work crew working 6 days a week on this building. Expect significant improvements by the winter.

In other building projects, Nathan is now clearing and preparing to build on a lot across from Poley’s house, 1 lot north of the Old Cemetery.

Other than that, and Clyde’s house, not much is happening.
Then we have Big Ears--eating cardboard boxes behind Island Thyme. About a month old.

Copyright Fresno Chile Pepper Co 2005
Night Heron--in broad daylight--skipping along my driveway having just downed an entire land crab--little legs sticking out while I'm trying to get the camera out.

Copyright Fresno Chile Pepper Co 2005
New In Town: brand new baby donkey in the North District--day or two old--still crackly.

Copyright Fresno Chile Pepper Co 2005
Animal Life
There were at least 2 new baby donkeys in the North District. Valentine is a pick pocket of sorts. When trying to photograph the new baby he was trying to get into my pockets, poking me and pushing, wanting attention and treats. The babies are not at all as trained as he is.
The mother and son on the south end are fine...he too is a pest and won’t leave the yard unless rewarded. What did you folks train them to do this winter? Mamma is obviously expecting and as gentle and sweet as usual.

Loppy, the donkey with the broken ears is still around as well.

Herbert Simmons’ old cow passed away. I thought she was the old brown cow that comes to my fence to get tired fruit and vegies...and has a tongue that’s about a foot long. But fortunately I got the wrong cow id.
The Residency's kitchen fireplace against a summer storm--one of many this year.

Copyright Fresno Chile Pepper Co 2005
Weather
No hurricanes while on island. But boy did we have storms! I was washing everything in sight trying to keep the cistern level from overflowing. Mostly they were night storms with good thunder and lightening. And wind from the west–that was odd for me.
The yard went from toasted brown with nothing, and barely alive, to bright green and very happy when I left.
South Caicos on the way to Salt Cay

Copyright Fresno Chile Pepper Co 2005
Airline Service
AirTAC is problematic. They truly are only flying on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. But, if the Islander is down, then there is no service at all. That is the only plane currently flying that can come to Salt Cay.

They have a King Air but it cannot land there...plus their useful load isn’t anything to get excited about.

The Twin Otter is in the shop...as in no wings at the moment.

The Cessna’s are out of time and can’t be used anymore either...plus the one that went through the fence is still in the shop.

I can report that Lionel turned on the landing lights for us on an early September, Friday morning so the 6 am flight could see to land! It was great... and they really work.

Be sure you are booking your landing in Provo for the right days of the week as AirTAC will not fly you into Salt Cay. Porter found that out the hard way. He could have chartered for what it cost him to overnight in Grand Turk and find places to put his cold food.

And, if you are in Provo and they cannot fly? The word is get a room as you are not going anywhere...and if it is Saturday, prepare to be there until Monday when the next flight is scheduled. Or call Global. Or buy a boat and learn to drive it to Salt Cay. Bottom line is MWFSa, and that’s that.

Check out Spirit Air. http://www.spiritair.com/welcome.aspx?pg=salesinformation&number=59

They plan to fly to Provo and Grand Turk starting February 16, 2006 from Ft. Lauderdale. This link should get you to their Caribbean links page. Sounds like Ft. Lauderdale is $99 each way with their best discount.

Library

It’s library time. End of the year blues. Time to break open those hard hit wallets to make sure we have a librarian to staff the library to keep the library functioning. Please donate whatever you can either by sending it to Gary Lightbourne, Salt Cay Public Library, Salt Cay, TCI, BWI or Paypal it to mmcnair1@comcast.net and make sure it says Salt Cay Library Donation on it. I will make sure the cash gets to the island.

Closing

We are off to Salt Cay for 2 months on November 16, and returning January 11, 2006. Hopefully there will be folks coming and going to keep us from getting too bored with each other.
Marley’s going to work on his snorkel heeling. Joel’s going to finish the deck, do his work bench in the garage, and we’ll paint the garage as well. Other than that, it is time to start diving as much as weather permits, try to get to South Caicos and enjoy the life of Salt Cay while we can.
Hope to see you there.

Mbm