I interviewed Ned and Lillian Kennedy at their home near the airport. Ned has a remarkable memory for a man 90 years of age. Though he was often at sea as a Merchant Marine, when he was home he took an active part in the life of Salt Cay.
Ned played in the cricket matches and loved the entertainment and immediately brought up Miss Mabel and her sister. Salt Cay had the best musicians and band in the whole area. Cricket matches lasted for days and they competed against the other islands. The team was mixed race as there were not enough white’s to compete alone.
Miss Mabel had described Ned as a good boy when they grew up, though he had no mother and father to raise him.
When he worked in the salt, he made 2 shilling, 6 pence a day...56 cents.
Ned’s message to the future is to be decent and obedient, especially the youngsters. To be dutiful to your family and your elders. Respect.
Miss Lillian told me how she went to private school. Her parents were very strict and she was not allowed to watch the filming of "Bahama Passage" or be in the movie as an extra. Ned was in some scenes and hung around a lot.
Miss Lillian said the girls played basketball. They all loved it and played all they could.
Ned said I had to meet Georgie Selver as he was a "talker". I had used 1 ½ tapes and most of two batteries with Ned. Ned said I should be sure to take more tape for Georgie.
Friday, July 15, 2005
Georgie is Alice Selver’s husband and they live across the street from Netty’s Store. The building was, at one time, Georgie’s grandfather’s house. He was a man who came to Salt Cay as an interpreter as he spoke 7 languages. Anthony Lewelyn Seymour. He became a merchant, and their home was once the store. He was from Bermuda and South Caicos. He had salt ponds and was very "middle class" for a man of color.
Georgie is now blind from aging and illness.
Alice was in the store/house during the 1945 hurricane, and the roof started to come off. She took her step-son out of the building and they hid under the wall in the dark for hours to avoid the storm.
Georgie was on a banana boat from Nassau to Haiti when the storm hit. They saw it swirling around Salt Cay.
Georgie said that when Salt Cay was "in shape" it was ahead of South Caicos and Grand Turk–especially with the bands. Georgie said they took goat skin and made drums. Bamboo was used to fashion horns. They made their own music with what they had.
Islanders worked in the salt from when the sun cleared the hill to when the sun set and you earned your 2 shillings 6 pence. Georgie said "your feet better be in the salt when the sun cleared the hill". Going to sea was a better option. So, like Ned, with a family to feed he joined the Merchant Marines and traveled on oil tankers through the Middle East.
Before that, during the war, he worked on sailing ships going from Nassau to Haiti and through the TCI’s. Brown sugar was needed by the Pepsi and Coca Cola plants in Nassau to make soft drinks. Granulated sugar was rationed, and unavailable, but the need for soft drinks was still great.
Georgie is quite the talker as Ned predicted and it was an interesting time.
Georgie is now blind from aging and illness.
Alice was in the store/house during the 1945 hurricane, and the roof started to come off. She took her step-son out of the building and they hid under the wall in the dark for hours to avoid the storm.
Georgie was on a banana boat from Nassau to Haiti when the storm hit. They saw it swirling around Salt Cay.
Georgie said that when Salt Cay was "in shape" it was ahead of South Caicos and Grand Turk–especially with the bands. Georgie said they took goat skin and made drums. Bamboo was used to fashion horns. They made their own music with what they had.
Islanders worked in the salt from when the sun cleared the hill to when the sun set and you earned your 2 shillings 6 pence. Georgie said "your feet better be in the salt when the sun cleared the hill". Going to sea was a better option. So, like Ned, with a family to feed he joined the Merchant Marines and traveled on oil tankers through the Middle East.
Before that, during the war, he worked on sailing ships going from Nassau to Haiti and through the TCI’s. Brown sugar was needed by the Pepsi and Coca Cola plants in Nassau to make soft drinks. Granulated sugar was rationed, and unavailable, but the need for soft drinks was still great.
Georgie is quite the talker as Ned predicted and it was an interesting time.
Running out of free tape and time, I was at Marilyn’s and Sammy and Ma Lucy Simmons were on their front stoop. Sammy was more than happy to get his accordion out and play for me.
I was amazed at Sammy and Lucy’s memories and stories. Lucy was the teacher at one time. Sammy had the largest mule on the island and the best and strongest cart.
They had 13 children, the first, Dorothy, died 2 weeks after her birth. They raised all the children in the house they live in now. Sammy was born in the ruin that fronts Mike and Marilyn James’ property on Victoria.
Sammy’s first accordion came to him from his sister in New York and it cost $5.90. Can you imagine how much effort went into getting it to Salt Cay? He taught himself to play it. Most men played "1 key" accordion, but he taught himself "2 key" and that made way better music. He won accordion contests, and the older men who played weren’t hired in favor of Sammy.
Salt Cay had the best band in the islands, bar none. Just like Georgie said.
Miss Ella Hamilton told me she has no picture of her late husband. Nothing, not even a wedding picture. No one had a camera and the one’s who did "didn’t take pictures of us". They barely had money to put food on the table so a camera, or a picture, was out of the question. Again I heard "2 shillings, 6 pence a day". And again, life was filled with the entertainment you made, your church and your family.
So, here we are on Salt Cay with our DVD’s, computers, DirectTV satelite dishes and CD’s, and trying to entertain ourselves or our kids. But, when times were hard, the entertainment flowed. Men like Sammy Simmons taught themselves to play the accordion without any lessons, books, tapes or help. It was in their minds and flowed out of them naturally.
I was amazed at Sammy and Lucy’s memories and stories. Lucy was the teacher at one time. Sammy had the largest mule on the island and the best and strongest cart.
They had 13 children, the first, Dorothy, died 2 weeks after her birth. They raised all the children in the house they live in now. Sammy was born in the ruin that fronts Mike and Marilyn James’ property on Victoria.
Sammy’s first accordion came to him from his sister in New York and it cost $5.90. Can you imagine how much effort went into getting it to Salt Cay? He taught himself to play it. Most men played "1 key" accordion, but he taught himself "2 key" and that made way better music. He won accordion contests, and the older men who played weren’t hired in favor of Sammy.
Salt Cay had the best band in the islands, bar none. Just like Georgie said.
Miss Ella Hamilton told me she has no picture of her late husband. Nothing, not even a wedding picture. No one had a camera and the one’s who did "didn’t take pictures of us". They barely had money to put food on the table so a camera, or a picture, was out of the question. Again I heard "2 shillings, 6 pence a day". And again, life was filled with the entertainment you made, your church and your family.
So, here we are on Salt Cay with our DVD’s, computers, DirectTV satelite dishes and CD’s, and trying to entertain ourselves or our kids. But, when times were hard, the entertainment flowed. Men like Sammy Simmons taught themselves to play the accordion without any lessons, books, tapes or help. It was in their minds and flowed out of them naturally.
There is just so much richness out here on Salt Cay. I’m about to head out and look at the stars one more time before I go. I turned on the TV for a minute after seeing the "Bubbles" show and realized it just didn’t interest me. I haven’t really watched TV and the one movie I watched, well, I fell asleep. A good book is calling my name, as is my pillow. I have not one clue what is going on in the world and I think they are getting along without my input.
And I am writing. I cannot write at home most of the time. There is too much buzzing going on, too much "noise" in the air...let’s face it, the air boils at home compared to Salt Cay.
I hope you enjoy this blog and that you have the opportunity to read my article in Times Of The Islands, Summer 2005.
May I suggest to my faithful readers, and many of you already do this: Stop and meet someone here on Salt Cay. Ask questions and listen to the heritage that makes our island so unique in the tourist world. We are a tourist destination and things will change whether we like it or not sooner than we like.
Right now Rock Talbot (Netty’s husband) is seriously ill in Nassau. He may well not come home. And time marches on here, picking people off one at a time.
We need to talk to folks, give them a ride, respect them, listen and learn about this little place in the sun we call home. There are few children to listen to the past and these people need someone to listen.
And I am writing. I cannot write at home most of the time. There is too much buzzing going on, too much "noise" in the air...let’s face it, the air boils at home compared to Salt Cay.
I hope you enjoy this blog and that you have the opportunity to read my article in Times Of The Islands, Summer 2005.
May I suggest to my faithful readers, and many of you already do this: Stop and meet someone here on Salt Cay. Ask questions and listen to the heritage that makes our island so unique in the tourist world. We are a tourist destination and things will change whether we like it or not sooner than we like.
Right now Rock Talbot (Netty’s husband) is seriously ill in Nassau. He may well not come home. And time marches on here, picking people off one at a time.
We need to talk to folks, give them a ride, respect them, listen and learn about this little place in the sun we call home. There are few children to listen to the past and these people need someone to listen.
Planes, Trains and Donkey Carts
When traveling to and from Salt Cay on AirTAC, one has to be flexible, resourceful and firm.
I myself experienced the less than easy trip home. The only mode of transportation I did NOT take was a donkey cart or train.
I was all cleaned up and ready to go at 9:30 when I discovered I couldn't find my house keys. The original keys that open everything.
Positive in my senility, I even opened up the bolted and screwed closed garage to check in there. I knew I'd seen them but where? I'd only been up since 5 am cleaning, closing..you know, all those fun things one does before locking the door and leaving for months. I was totally sweat soaked again, another shower helped a little. My mood was swinging south...
Then Zoltan, the Hungarian Divemaster, calls on the radio to say he's coming to get me as I am "taking boat to Grand Turk" No details. Candy shows up in her cart to take me somewhere thinking airport--Zoltan finds us midway in the truck and I go to the dock.
It seems I am going to GDT on Splash, a V-hull dive boat. No Air Turks and Caicos as all they hav, supposedly, is the King Air and that can't land on Salt Cay...I'm stuck. I'm getting my grandson Dallas and cannot miss this plane.
They can't be bothered to come to Salt Cay to pick up a reserved, confirmed, reconfirmed passenger. Deb says they're holding the plane in Grand Turk for me—right, and donkey's will fly me to GDT too right?
A 45 minute boat ride later, AirTAC is waiting on the dock for me...nice lady...plane isn't even there yet and it is 45 minutes late.
I go inside to check in and they want me to pay overage on my luggage as I have my washing machine motor with me (everyone travels with a spare, right?)
I was polite, but firm, that I wasn't paying money when I just rode in an open boat to GDT and not a plane, etc.. Then she says "Well you may not get to Provo any time soon". I was about to loose it when the SkyCap says the plane is 5 minutes out..and it was. Gate agent/Skycap/Gate agent/Skycap....who do you believe now?
I got to Provo in time to check in, change my salt encrusted shirt, run a brush through the fright wig on my head and go to the gate...only to be paged to security. They don't see many washing machine motors taped down to the bottom of ice chests I guess. Had to go through security again since no one was there to watch my bags for me.
We finally got to Miami and of course the lines were long and slow...and no luggage carts as there are so many people. So I am dragging my ice chest on the floor, got my camera gear back pack, the roller bag carryon, and my checked bag with rollers and that rat bastard at Ag points for me to go through that long line for inspection...like I don't have enough problems, he needs to send me on an errand with no luggage cart. I say nothing as I do not have 45 minutes to explain my bad attitude, nasty disposition and bad humor to some even more humorless Customs supervisor in a little room off the Ag station.
So no time for a shower in Miami and I really, really needed it...I didn't even have time for a drink, which I really, really needed, of anything! I had to get to the next gate, through Security again. Everything ran like a clock until the last flight in Dallas/Ft. Worth where we had to wait for the flight attendant to arrive. By then, I didn't want a drink, or a shower in any Admiral's Club, I just wanted my own shower, my own bed.
I did learn though that no amount of internal effort can make a boat go faster than it can, make AirTAC show up as they should or anything else out of my control. You'd think at 54 I'd learn that once and for all...maybe this time it will set better.
The moral of the story is remain flexible at all times, be ready an hour before it's time to go to the SLX airport and try not to lose your sense of humor.
I will write AirTAC and let them know of my wonderful experience on their scheduled airline. I’ll send them a reminder of the other adventures created not by planes that cough, go through fences or tails hitting runways. But, by promises made and broken...planes that do not show up because they don't feel like coming to Salt Cay for one person. If they want to do cost cutting, I am going to do revenue cutting.
I think from now on, I'm going to bite the bullet when traveling loaded with dog, luggage and husband and go Global charter. And I'll take any strays that want to pay me a little share for a seat if there's room...just to take the business from AirTAC.
Ultimately though, whether it is a smooth trip home, or like this one, a side trip through Hell, the time on Salt Cay is worth every minute of inconvenience going or coming. I met people on the island I'd never met; talked for hours with Ned and Lillian Kennedy; heard Miss Mabel sing a song for my camera; and Sammy and Ma Lucy talk like I've never heard them talk before. And a couple tunes from Sammy too.
So much richness, so little time.
When traveling to and from Salt Cay on AirTAC, one has to be flexible, resourceful and firm.
I myself experienced the less than easy trip home. The only mode of transportation I did NOT take was a donkey cart or train.
I was all cleaned up and ready to go at 9:30 when I discovered I couldn't find my house keys. The original keys that open everything.
Positive in my senility, I even opened up the bolted and screwed closed garage to check in there. I knew I'd seen them but where? I'd only been up since 5 am cleaning, closing..you know, all those fun things one does before locking the door and leaving for months. I was totally sweat soaked again, another shower helped a little. My mood was swinging south...
Then Zoltan, the Hungarian Divemaster, calls on the radio to say he's coming to get me as I am "taking boat to Grand Turk" No details. Candy shows up in her cart to take me somewhere thinking airport--Zoltan finds us midway in the truck and I go to the dock.
It seems I am going to GDT on Splash, a V-hull dive boat. No Air Turks and Caicos as all they hav, supposedly, is the King Air and that can't land on Salt Cay...I'm stuck. I'm getting my grandson Dallas and cannot miss this plane.
They can't be bothered to come to Salt Cay to pick up a reserved, confirmed, reconfirmed passenger. Deb says they're holding the plane in Grand Turk for me—right, and donkey's will fly me to GDT too right?
A 45 minute boat ride later, AirTAC is waiting on the dock for me...nice lady...plane isn't even there yet and it is 45 minutes late.
I go inside to check in and they want me to pay overage on my luggage as I have my washing machine motor with me (everyone travels with a spare, right?)
I was polite, but firm, that I wasn't paying money when I just rode in an open boat to GDT and not a plane, etc.. Then she says "Well you may not get to Provo any time soon". I was about to loose it when the SkyCap says the plane is 5 minutes out..and it was. Gate agent/Skycap/Gate agent/Skycap....who do you believe now?
I got to Provo in time to check in, change my salt encrusted shirt, run a brush through the fright wig on my head and go to the gate...only to be paged to security. They don't see many washing machine motors taped down to the bottom of ice chests I guess. Had to go through security again since no one was there to watch my bags for me.
We finally got to Miami and of course the lines were long and slow...and no luggage carts as there are so many people. So I am dragging my ice chest on the floor, got my camera gear back pack, the roller bag carryon, and my checked bag with rollers and that rat bastard at Ag points for me to go through that long line for inspection...like I don't have enough problems, he needs to send me on an errand with no luggage cart. I say nothing as I do not have 45 minutes to explain my bad attitude, nasty disposition and bad humor to some even more humorless Customs supervisor in a little room off the Ag station.
So no time for a shower in Miami and I really, really needed it...I didn't even have time for a drink, which I really, really needed, of anything! I had to get to the next gate, through Security again. Everything ran like a clock until the last flight in Dallas/Ft. Worth where we had to wait for the flight attendant to arrive. By then, I didn't want a drink, or a shower in any Admiral's Club, I just wanted my own shower, my own bed.
I did learn though that no amount of internal effort can make a boat go faster than it can, make AirTAC show up as they should or anything else out of my control. You'd think at 54 I'd learn that once and for all...maybe this time it will set better.
The moral of the story is remain flexible at all times, be ready an hour before it's time to go to the SLX airport and try not to lose your sense of humor.
I will write AirTAC and let them know of my wonderful experience on their scheduled airline. I’ll send them a reminder of the other adventures created not by planes that cough, go through fences or tails hitting runways. But, by promises made and broken...planes that do not show up because they don't feel like coming to Salt Cay for one person. If they want to do cost cutting, I am going to do revenue cutting.
I think from now on, I'm going to bite the bullet when traveling loaded with dog, luggage and husband and go Global charter. And I'll take any strays that want to pay me a little share for a seat if there's room...just to take the business from AirTAC.
Ultimately though, whether it is a smooth trip home, or like this one, a side trip through Hell, the time on Salt Cay is worth every minute of inconvenience going or coming. I met people on the island I'd never met; talked for hours with Ned and Lillian Kennedy; heard Miss Mabel sing a song for my camera; and Sammy and Ma Lucy talk like I've never heard them talk before. And a couple tunes from Sammy too.
So much richness, so little time.
Fishing Tournament
The big to do was the fishing tournament based out of Grand Turk in June. Uncle Lionel, Clyde and Jeff headed up the Salt Cay entry.
I don’t know which was bigger, the betting pool or the prize money, but it was all a big deal.
Clyde looked like a tomato on Saturday night, I know I saw it. You could have read a book at night by the glow from his face.
Seems they caught a huge Wahoo and could have won the entire tournament on Sunday. But, the call of the Wahoo was too great, and they didn’t want to turn the fish over to the tournament. So they showed him off and took him home to Salt Cay and, in true island style, ate him.
Hard to win a fishing tournament and eat the trophy too I guess.
Anyway, this tournament had every major fishing affishanado out in their best boats. The favorite actually hit a coral head and wound up out of the hunt, literally. Some of the Provo folks, including Art Pickering and his group, came to Salt Cay to rest and rehab after the tournament. Though rehab is probably the wrong word.
The big to do was the fishing tournament based out of Grand Turk in June. Uncle Lionel, Clyde and Jeff headed up the Salt Cay entry.
I don’t know which was bigger, the betting pool or the prize money, but it was all a big deal.
Clyde looked like a tomato on Saturday night, I know I saw it. You could have read a book at night by the glow from his face.
Seems they caught a huge Wahoo and could have won the entire tournament on Sunday. But, the call of the Wahoo was too great, and they didn’t want to turn the fish over to the tournament. So they showed him off and took him home to Salt Cay and, in true island style, ate him.
Hard to win a fishing tournament and eat the trophy too I guess.
Anyway, this tournament had every major fishing affishanado out in their best boats. The favorite actually hit a coral head and wound up out of the hunt, literally. Some of the Provo folks, including Art Pickering and his group, came to Salt Cay to rest and rehab after the tournament. Though rehab is probably the wrong word.
BEET FUTURES AND OTHER COMMODITIES
As you all know, I do tend to follow the Salt Cay Futures and Commodities Exchange as best I can. Sometimes Salt Cay involves Grand Turk and Provo futures indexes as well. It just depends upon the commodity and the time of year. We usually have lots of salt and little else.
Anyway. We had dinner at Miss Pat’s the other night. Marilyn and her pals, Deb and I. Miss Pat served beets in honor of Marilyn. Frankly I think it is because beet futures are now depressed and Grand Turk has more canned beets than they anticipated.
Let’s face it, I follow beets now. The 99 Cent Store is packed with beets as is the Dollar Tree at 2 for $1. This tells me that Mike and Mo aren’t eatin’ enough beets. And when they start showing up at restaurant tables, well, clearly beets are depressed.
Of course I always report on the futures, as perceived by the Salt Cay Futures and Commodities Exchange on other areas of interest and we have the following observations:
Ants are not depressed. In fact ants are at an all time high here. However, their futures are in limbo if you are on island and have the proper treatment.
Boric Acid futures are strong given the ants. Though they seem to be developing a taste for Boric Acid with any form of sugar.
Diazanon is strong if you have it given the ant situation.
Sand Flea futures are weak, fortunately, as are topical ointments. This reporter’s research project on sand flea bite relief is now delayed by at least 6 months. My ankle futures are high and happy though.
Palmetto futures are mixed at the moment as I haven’t bug bombed the house.
Mosquito futures, despite all the rain, are weak. Haven’t seen or heard one yet but that could change in a moment.
Beef (not beet) futures are stable as there must be at least 6 or 7 brand new calves.
Water futures are stable at the moment if you have a strong cistern and some DR tanks. Water futures were strong a week ago when the rain stopped. Demand was looking good. Now, if you’re not on the "water meter" map plan, your future for government water is crap. Pray for rain.
Wind futures are strong given the hurricane season to date.
Roof futures are hopefully stable.
Property futures are stronger than ever. If you have no plans to sell they remain stable with a strong future.
And as for beets....sell, sell, sell and buy them at the Dollar Tree if you like them.
WARNING: Salt Cay Futures are not traded publicly and fluctuate depending upon prevailing trade winds, time of day, who is on island and what the boat brought.
As you all know, I do tend to follow the Salt Cay Futures and Commodities Exchange as best I can. Sometimes Salt Cay involves Grand Turk and Provo futures indexes as well. It just depends upon the commodity and the time of year. We usually have lots of salt and little else.
Anyway. We had dinner at Miss Pat’s the other night. Marilyn and her pals, Deb and I. Miss Pat served beets in honor of Marilyn. Frankly I think it is because beet futures are now depressed and Grand Turk has more canned beets than they anticipated.
Let’s face it, I follow beets now. The 99 Cent Store is packed with beets as is the Dollar Tree at 2 for $1. This tells me that Mike and Mo aren’t eatin’ enough beets. And when they start showing up at restaurant tables, well, clearly beets are depressed.
Of course I always report on the futures, as perceived by the Salt Cay Futures and Commodities Exchange on other areas of interest and we have the following observations:
Ants are not depressed. In fact ants are at an all time high here. However, their futures are in limbo if you are on island and have the proper treatment.
Boric Acid futures are strong given the ants. Though they seem to be developing a taste for Boric Acid with any form of sugar.
Diazanon is strong if you have it given the ant situation.
Sand Flea futures are weak, fortunately, as are topical ointments. This reporter’s research project on sand flea bite relief is now delayed by at least 6 months. My ankle futures are high and happy though.
Palmetto futures are mixed at the moment as I haven’t bug bombed the house.
Mosquito futures, despite all the rain, are weak. Haven’t seen or heard one yet but that could change in a moment.
Beef (not beet) futures are stable as there must be at least 6 or 7 brand new calves.
Water futures are stable at the moment if you have a strong cistern and some DR tanks. Water futures were strong a week ago when the rain stopped. Demand was looking good. Now, if you’re not on the "water meter" map plan, your future for government water is crap. Pray for rain.
Wind futures are strong given the hurricane season to date.
Roof futures are hopefully stable.
Property futures are stronger than ever. If you have no plans to sell they remain stable with a strong future.
And as for beets....sell, sell, sell and buy them at the Dollar Tree if you like them.
WARNING: Salt Cay Futures are not traded publicly and fluctuate depending upon prevailing trade winds, time of day, who is on island and what the boat brought.
Comings And Goings
Marilyn, came and went.
I came before Marilyn and left after her.
George and Lisa Kane arrived as I was packing to leave;
Some guests were on island.
Our guests came and went.
Clyde was here with his son.
The fishing tournament was here.
Porter finally left for home, being on island since October. It was that or shoot him.
Everyone else stayed home, on island.
Pretty exciting stuff.
Marilyn, came and went.
I came before Marilyn and left after her.
George and Lisa Kane arrived as I was packing to leave;
Some guests were on island.
Our guests came and went.
Clyde was here with his son.
The fishing tournament was here.
Porter finally left for home, being on island since October. It was that or shoot him.
Everyone else stayed home, on island.
Pretty exciting stuff.
Wednesday, May 04, 2005
SPRING EDITION UPDATED!
MORE WHALES!
Cindi's whale shot got such good comments, I asked her to send me one more--and she did. There are four whales in this shot. Now we know why this is the Humpback Highway! I've seen a few whales, but this is amazing stuff.
Never stay home during whale season. At least go snorkeling!
Cindi's whale shot got such good comments, I asked her to send me one more--and she did. There are four whales in this shot. Now we know why this is the Humpback Highway! I've seen a few whales, but this is amazing stuff.
Never stay home during whale season. At least go snorkeling!
Tuesday, May 03, 2005
SPRING EDITION
Despite not being on island, the Spring Edition is here and features reports from two contributors. The high life on Salt Cay is winding down after a smashing high season...but regular life goes on and so does the news.....
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