Tuesday, November 15, 2005

IT'S THE FALL EDITION--JUST IN TIME FOR WINTER!

The Fall Edition of the blog is here at last.

With all the things to do for a 2 month trip to Salt Cay; photo work; writing; the blog got clogged. So here's what I have...I'll do some antique photos in the early 2006 edition.
The happy couple at Windmills Plantation

Copyright Fresno Chile Pepper Co 2005
August 26, 2005 heralded the first Islander wedding in 8 years at St. John’s Church. Pat and Herbert Simmons’ daughter Lourissa (Nish), and Constable Colville Garrick wed in an early morning ceremony.

The last wedding to take place in St. John’s of local children was Miss Netty’s daughter eight years previous.

It was a joyous event, followed by a feast at the Salt Shed.

Most everyone on the island and Grand Turk arrived in their finery. The hats were not to be outdone nor the hairstyles. It seems the long "curly" look is in on the ladies side.
Easily THE hat of the wedding, worn by Mrs. Rosalie Glinton

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Miss Rosalie Glinton had to have the largest and most spectacular hat and outfit. Rosalie’s hat looked like it could land small aircraft and was in a brilliant aqua to match her dress.

The most gracious look, I think, went to Leila Robinson. Miss Netty wasn’t to be outdone either as was Kathryn Simmons...all of whom are pictured here.

As for the bride and groom, you can see for yourself what a striking couple they made.
You can see the entire wedding collection at
http://www.shutterfly.com/pro/FresnoChile/SaltCayWedding
Pat and Herbert Simmons at their

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Tradewinds Mural

A recent guest, Mary of Palm Springs, friends with Deb and a returnee, painted a great coral reef mural on the Victoria side of Tradewinds. It really turned out fabulous and everyone on the island was thrilled with the donation by Mary. Allee/Anyee became a painter himself, helping Mary with the coral details.

DC Dottis Arthur was also thrilled with the work that Mary did on her vacation to Salt Cay and her artistic donation. DC Arthur said it was going to give her something beautiful to look at on her drive home.

And speaking of drives home by the DC, Mrs. Arthur took delivery of the new DC’s van last week. It’s white again, and brand new. The nurse will inherit the old van it appears.
I couldn’t believe how fast Lew Tide can arrive, unload and leave the White House dock area. Pretty impressive.

Sarah’s Closes

I failed to include in the previous blog the fact that Sarah’s Shopping Center, Mall and Garden Center are now closed. The liquor store, thank God, remains open, but not on Tuesdays.
Cee’s was putting in large glass cold boxes and plans to carry more in the way of perishables and frozen foods apparently. R&R Cash and Carry seems to have been the death knell for Sarah’s as they continue to have more dependable stock on the shelves.

Grand Turk

The Carnival Cruise Line Village, Dock and overall mess is proceeding straightaway. It is just unfathomable what the boats and influx of such a huge amount of tourists is going to be. Rumor has it the world’s largest Margaritaville Bar will be in the village.

I try not to editorialize...really I do. But this is one thing we’d better, as lovers of Salt Cay, keep an eye on. I know we’ll get some boat people...but if they come over for 3 hours, buy a bottle of water, pet a donkey, go to the bathroom a couple of times, wash their hands and faces, and then decide the $20 T-shirt is too much..then drop their bottle on the ground and leave...it isn’t worth it. Not to mention letting the cruise ship companies try to "develop" Salt Cay to their liking.

All I am saying is that we need to keep an eye on what is happening with the ships, growth and how it affects our island and the island’s future.

We really need to ask ourselves if we want to be like Grand Turk, Cozumel, Antigua...or do we want to be Parrot Cay, Jumby Bay and such. In other words, staying aloof of the crowds and looking to the quiet, peaceful traveler. I suspect the folks who loved Grand Turk will move on to Salt Cay to find the quiet dive life they used to have.

There was some news this summer in the local press about Spirit Air flying direct flights from Ft. Lauderdale to Grand Turk and that is now confirmed. Plus Spirit is going to start flying out of Dallas/FtWorth soon to link up to Ft. Lauderdale and the Caribbean. Let’s hope American decides to keep up with the Spirit.

Check out their web site as they plan to start flying in February–ergo when the cruise ships arrive.

BUT, Spirit Air will not fly pets. Obviously they aren’t interested in Marley or Maggie’s business.

And USAirways, now owned by America West, is not allowing pets. That may be because America West had such a dismal on time, if at all, arrival rate, they can’t risk putting a pet on board. America West flew Fresno to Tucson/Phoenix, and it was not unusual for the flight to never arrive, and be rescheduled for the next day–usually when a load was light. Flexibility in flying America West meant having an extra day on BOTH sides of the trip. Let’s hope that improves with USAirways in the mix.

Speaking Of Pets

In our recent Times Of The Islands article on traveling with your pets, I mentioned K9 Quencher for pets. This an electrolyte additive for water.

K9 Quencher sent Marley some samples and I think it really does help with their heat recovery. What it does is stimulates them to drink more water when they might be a little overloaded with fatigue and heat. It also has a "gatorade" like effect in replenishing their electrolytes when heat has sapped them.

So, we’re going to try it on those beach walks and when Marley is really hot and tired. Heat illness in dogs, (stroke and exhaustion for example) is a serious issue if you are taking your pet to Salt Cay–if you’re thirsty imagine them—they are wearing a fur coat and can only dissipate heat through their paws and tongue.

Folks

Everyone seems to be okay on island. Sammy and Ma Lucy Simmons played accordion and sang for me again this trip. What a pair. You should have seen her dance the Heel-Toe Polka while Sammy played.

Miss Netty told me during her oral history interview that she intends to stay on Salt Cay as that is where her life is. She’ll save Provo and living with her children for when she cannot take care of herself or her home. Let’s hope that is a long way off. She seems fine and talks of "Sherlock" easily, but obviously misses him greatly.

In her interview she talked about meeting him and "falling in love" that first time they really met and talked at a garden party–remember, Salt Cay was much more populated. To be South took some effort if you lived in the North, which the Talbot brothers did. He went to sea and would be gone for 12 months and home for 3 months. The cycle always seemed to involve her greeting him at the door with a new baby.

Netty was a fascinating interview and I cannot wait to work on her tape. She may be profiled in Times Of The Island this winter.

I also interviewed Holton Dickenson—Poley. Another interesting man. His wife was his childhood sweetheart as well. He knew when he was in school that she as going to be his wife.
When his dad died suddenly, he was 19. He had to become a salt raker within a matter of days after his passing. His father drowned on Saturday and Monday he was in the ponds. He raked for several years before he got the opportunity to use the trade craft of carpentry he’d been taught in his younger years in school. Then he got a job offer to be on the Dutch ships and left for sea.

He commented too on the cycle...coming home to his wife and a new baby after every trip. He laughed and smiled at the thought of those years.

Do you know what a "whomper" is?

Whompers were boots, really more of a sandal, the salt rakers made out of old truck tires. They cut them up and tied them around their feet to protect against the brine and the clay bottoms of the salina. On a hot day, Poley said it was really, really hard work. They were out there when the sun came up and left when the sun went down in the summer. The pond water was extremely hot and not at all "refreshing" while standing in the hot sun. All for 2 shillings, 6 pence a day...about 56 cents.

He talked about the elder Mr. Harriott, Howard. His wife, Winnie, was very nice and gave the workers food when she could. They lived in the Brown House. Mr. Harriott couldn’t see out of his left eye so everyone who had any sense stayed on his left side so he couldn’t see what they were doing...so did Mrs. Harriott.

Anyway, the stories are marvelous and I’ll try to pass them on as time goes by.
St. John's new paint job--and no they didn't put underground wires in--that is the wonder of Photoshop.

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Rosalie Harriott

I traveled to Crowsnest Pass, Alberta Canada in October to visit Rosalie Harriott where has lived for many years.

I spent three days interviewing Rosalie and copying photographs from her collection. I learned a great deal, and connected a lot of "dots" about the salt industry and the Turks Islands.
Brown House/Sunnyside And The Legendary "Salt Barons"

The Brown House was bought by the Harriott’s in the late 1800's for Howard Harriott and his first wife, Rosalie. Rosalie died quite young of TB, after giving birth to three children, Franklyn, Gladys and Natalie. He thereafter married Winnie Rigby.

Daniel (Niel) Harriott, the elder brother of Howard, lived in the White House. The Brown House was then named "Sunnyside". With the untimely, early death of Niel in 1912. The White House was closed for at least 10 years and no one resided there. Niel’s widow returned to Grand Turk.
The White House was reopened in the early 30's when Franklyn and his bride Marjorie Durham (of South Caicos), came to Salt Cay to live. According to "The Bermudan", a newspaper reporting their honeymoon, they were to "return home where they will constitute one half of Salt Key’s white population".

Franklyn was Rosalie’s father, and the last of the salt proprietors. Franklyn’s sisters were Gladys Hinson Harriott, a "maiden aunt" and Natalie Harriott Dunn, who is the grandmother of Tim and Jonathon Dunn. Natalie married Reverend Howard Dunn and had 2 sons, Michael and Ian with him.

Franklyn Harriott installed electric lighting and a bathroom in the White House. The downstairs kitchen remained until one of the cooks set the place on fire. At that point, a bedroom on the main floor was converted to a kitchen with a kerosene cooker being used. Probably about as safe as the fire kitchen down below.

Howard Harriott died in a drowning incident at towards the end of World War II. While on Grand Turk for a salt industry meeting, he insisted on returning to Salt Cay late in the day and in bad weather. He returned in a boat with 3 oarsmen—yes, rowing from Grand Turk—wearing a 3 piece suit and shoes–not good swimming wear.

The boat capsized in the area north of Salt Cay where the channel meets the shallows. Manuel Simmons, a "good man" according to Rosalie, perished with Howard Harriott. The other two oarsmen managed to save the boat and swim it the five miles to Salt Cay in the rough sea.
Winnie, Howard’s widow then left Salt Cay and returned to Grand Turk where she too was originally from.

Sunnyside then was closed. A trade ensued through the years whereby the White House was traded to the Dunn’s for Sunnyside. Sunnyside was then sold and the progression of owners began that continues to this day–and it has returned to being called the Brown House–a name that even Rosalie cannot explain.

Salt Barons

The term salt baron is one that Rosalie had never heard of until her return to Salt Cay in 1995. There was more than one salt proprietor on Salt Cay and no one was a "baron". The Harriott’s were the largest proprietors of ponds, but they weren’t barons.

Wealth was really relative. The Harriott’s were the only "whites" on the island, and had many things that most people didn’t have. They had "stuff" the Islanders did not have. Pay was relative to what the industry paid. But compared to what other people of the then "modern" world had, it wasn’t much. In reality, the depression was really the death knell of the Turks Islands salt industry.

When Franklyn Harriott came to Salt Cay live in the White House, it was 1931. The depression was still very real. When the depression let up, war in Europe was going on. Remember, Turks Islands were part of Great Britain, so they were at war long before the US was involved.
When the US entered the war and it went to a global scale, the salt industry was really in trouble, and shipping became impossible.

Post war, when a 10,000 ton ship came to collect salt in the "modern" way, the three islands of Grand Turk, Salt Cay and South Caicos couldn’t fill the holds, and that really spelled trouble. Young men did not want to work in the salt industry for little or nothing, doing work that was beyond hard, long and boring. They left and never returned.

In 1952 the Harriott’s left Salt Cay for good, going to Canada. Nationalization of the salt industry was the beginning of the end. Though preferred shareholders, there was not enough of a future in salt to keep it a viable industry and financial ruin was inevitable. This part, for Rosalie Harriott, is very difficult to discuss and share, but as a historian, they are the facts.

Franklyn Harriott, the last of the Harriott proprietors, died of a heart attack at the age of 61 in 1960, a broken man. At 50 years of age, when he left Salt Cay, he could not get a job. He was extremely stressed which broke his health. His widow, Marjorie, lived on until 79 years of age, having owned a dress shop in Vancouver, BC and later working for a department store.
This is really just a "nutshell" of the Harriott history, and one I intend to write and research in the months to come. It is a fascinating story and one I think many people will enjoy.

Brown House Renovation

Work really is going forward on the Brown House as this goes to "press". The entire lower floor basement is exposed and the dining room floor is gone. You can look up into the house from the ground.

There are huge, 14x30x34 foot beams for the floors that arrived by Lew Tide on the morning of the wedding. These things are monsters and I’d not like to be on the crew doing this remodel. Word is the cost is going to reach $1 million when it is done. There is a dedicated Haitian work crew working 6 days a week on this building. Expect significant improvements by the winter.

In other building projects, Nathan is now clearing and preparing to build on a lot across from Poley’s house, 1 lot north of the Old Cemetery.

Other than that, and Clyde’s house, not much is happening.
Then we have Big Ears--eating cardboard boxes behind Island Thyme. About a month old.

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Night Heron--in broad daylight--skipping along my driveway having just downed an entire land crab--little legs sticking out while I'm trying to get the camera out.

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New In Town: brand new baby donkey in the North District--day or two old--still crackly.

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Animal Life
There were at least 2 new baby donkeys in the North District. Valentine is a pick pocket of sorts. When trying to photograph the new baby he was trying to get into my pockets, poking me and pushing, wanting attention and treats. The babies are not at all as trained as he is.
The mother and son on the south end are fine...he too is a pest and won’t leave the yard unless rewarded. What did you folks train them to do this winter? Mamma is obviously expecting and as gentle and sweet as usual.

Loppy, the donkey with the broken ears is still around as well.

Herbert Simmons’ old cow passed away. I thought she was the old brown cow that comes to my fence to get tired fruit and vegies...and has a tongue that’s about a foot long. But fortunately I got the wrong cow id.
The Residency's kitchen fireplace against a summer storm--one of many this year.

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Weather
No hurricanes while on island. But boy did we have storms! I was washing everything in sight trying to keep the cistern level from overflowing. Mostly they were night storms with good thunder and lightening. And wind from the west–that was odd for me.
The yard went from toasted brown with nothing, and barely alive, to bright green and very happy when I left.
South Caicos on the way to Salt Cay

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Airline Service
AirTAC is problematic. They truly are only flying on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. But, if the Islander is down, then there is no service at all. That is the only plane currently flying that can come to Salt Cay.

They have a King Air but it cannot land there...plus their useful load isn’t anything to get excited about.

The Twin Otter is in the shop...as in no wings at the moment.

The Cessna’s are out of time and can’t be used anymore either...plus the one that went through the fence is still in the shop.

I can report that Lionel turned on the landing lights for us on an early September, Friday morning so the 6 am flight could see to land! It was great... and they really work.

Be sure you are booking your landing in Provo for the right days of the week as AirTAC will not fly you into Salt Cay. Porter found that out the hard way. He could have chartered for what it cost him to overnight in Grand Turk and find places to put his cold food.

And, if you are in Provo and they cannot fly? The word is get a room as you are not going anywhere...and if it is Saturday, prepare to be there until Monday when the next flight is scheduled. Or call Global. Or buy a boat and learn to drive it to Salt Cay. Bottom line is MWFSa, and that’s that.

Check out Spirit Air. http://www.spiritair.com/welcome.aspx?pg=salesinformation&number=59

They plan to fly to Provo and Grand Turk starting February 16, 2006 from Ft. Lauderdale. This link should get you to their Caribbean links page. Sounds like Ft. Lauderdale is $99 each way with their best discount.

Library

It’s library time. End of the year blues. Time to break open those hard hit wallets to make sure we have a librarian to staff the library to keep the library functioning. Please donate whatever you can either by sending it to Gary Lightbourne, Salt Cay Public Library, Salt Cay, TCI, BWI or Paypal it to mmcnair1@comcast.net and make sure it says Salt Cay Library Donation on it. I will make sure the cash gets to the island.

Closing

We are off to Salt Cay for 2 months on November 16, and returning January 11, 2006. Hopefully there will be folks coming and going to keep us from getting too bored with each other.
Marley’s going to work on his snorkel heeling. Joel’s going to finish the deck, do his work bench in the garage, and we’ll paint the garage as well. Other than that, it is time to start diving as much as weather permits, try to get to South Caicos and enjoy the life of Salt Cay while we can.
Hope to see you there.

Mbm

Wednesday, July 20, 2005

Sherlock "Rock" Talbot

Rock Passes Away: July 19, 2005

Rock Talbot, husband of Netty Talbot, passed away in Nassau after a brief illness.

Rock was a great fisherman, builder and all around good man. He will be missed greatly. He always had a warm smile, a good story, and such pride of family.

Last Christmas his granddaughter RandiAnn was on island for a visit. She rode around with her grandfather like a little princess. He was so proud and never stopped smiling.

If anyone would like to fill out the names of his family, it would be greatly appreciated.

This photo is one of the few photos I have of Rock. It is of poor quality, sorry. But it is the best I have and can do.
Sherlock "Rock" Talbot at the opening of Island Thyme in 2000.

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Friday, July 15, 2005

The Summer Blog Is Here!

To obtain a print of most pictures featured in this blog, please link to
www.fresnochile.com and follow the links to the desired gallery.
You can contact Michele McNair at
michele@saltcay.us

Bird Watching Heaven

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The First Few Days

We’ve all felt it here...someone move that big rock off me and let me get out of bed! After a night of traveling from California to New York, Provo and Salt Cay, I was one whipped puppy.

I got through Immigration pretty quickly actually. They seem to have sped up the computer process a little. Then I waited for my luggage. Of course it’s more than any one woman should be carrying. And, with the ice chest visible, I was queried as if I was importing human organs for transplant. I personally do not admit to carrying human organs, just fresh vegetables and frozen meats.

While waiting for my luggage I was standing there, in my stupor, when a lady came up with a magazine. I looked at the magazine in her hand and IT WAS MINE! St. John’s Door gracing the cover of Times Of The Islands. My heart stopped.

The lady handing it to me thought I was nuts. "That’s my cover! That’s my picture!" I’m sputtering. Well, she was pretty excited too as she had read the article and was from Salt Cay herself. She is Miss Aramenta Smith’s daughter, Loyce (sp?). We talked and I was giddy for a while.

I met Kathy Borsuk, the editor of Times Of The Islands and had a great lunch. It was encouraging to hear the cover and article already has great response. Certainly better than a sharp stick to the eye and ego.

Finally it was time to go home to Salt Cay and the Compass Rose. I cannot put into the words what it means to arrive on Salt Cay and be greeted by Debbie, Lionel, Barba and others. All you are bringing is yourself...nothing for anyone in particular. They are just happy to see you and have you back.

I don’t even mind unpacking the house for a stay of a couple of weeks. I just take longer to do it and start packing it before I’m finished.
It was great to have dinner with Debbie...just the two of us catching up after a busy season. Enjoying steaks, raviolis, good wine and best company. Someone had to do it.

Wednesday, Hump Day; No Grand Turk For Me

Wednesday brought my old buddy Sandi Knight from Naples, Florida. She’s known Jim and Sharon Shafer from when they weren’t even married and they all lived in Provo in the 70's. She’s the one responsible for making me come to the Turks and Caicos Islands in the first place.

We got into trouble by ourselves for a day or so and then Marilyn James showed up with her buddies Lu and Shannon, and Women’s Week began.
Since I’ve been sworn to a secret oath for the week, the details will remain faceless and nameless. Sort of like those Las Vegas ads.....

Sandi, a professional photographer, taught me a few things with Photoshop and out photographing the island. We had a great time shooting Porter William’s Coconut Shrimp for the upcoming Red Cross Cookbook. If you could see what a "shoot" looks like on Salt Cay you’d wonder how photographs ever get published frankly. We all like to died of dehydration in Island Thyme’s back yard getting the right light.

Sandi shears Porter

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Meet Governor Williams

The most amusing event was when Sandi, a hair stylist in a former life, cut off Porter’s pony tail..as in at the base of it. She got hold of it and hung on as I shot pictures of the event. In mid-cut Porter looked exactly like a Bermudan Governor or official from Pirates Of The Caribbean...look for yourself...he could have been Ben Franklin in a movie role for that matter.
But now he looks like Porter of days gone by.


Sandi left on Sunday, leaving a large hole in her absence. Marilyn, Lu and Shannon leave Wednesday and it will be down to Deb and I to be the social life of Salt Cay for awhile.
Governor Williams

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Some Days Should Last Forever....

Some days should last forever. Then others should never even be started.

Usually they are back to back least you get full of yourself.

Saturday was the day that shouldn’t have ended any time soon. Sandi and I had a great time shooting pictures in the morning. She got Uncle Lou’s picture sitting on the wall by Netty’s, enjoying his smoke with his bike next to him.

While Sandi took Uncle Lou’s picture, I chatted with Miss Minta waiting patiently in the DC’s van for her ride home. Miss Minta grew up on the hill where the Compass Rose is. Miss Minta told me about carrying water on her head from the White House up that long hill to the house. She had to do it over and over so that the barrel would get filled for the day. Keeping the cows out was the trick, even then.

The line of the trip is from Miss Minta: "They were hard times, but they were good times."

A donkey walked down Victoria Street like he owned it. But for us, he did that morning. He cleaned up the streets of Salt Cay eating an abandoned soda can.

Donkey lane on Victoria Street

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We did the shoot at Island Thyme and had a pretty good idea the pictures were going to be fun. We weren’t disappointed. So we spent the heat of the day working on the editing until it was time to go diving.

Late afternoon, Sandi, Marilyn and myself went diving with Zoltan to Shark’s Point and had a great time getting our gear wet finally.

Then we came in, got Deb and the rest of the gang and went out for a Girl’s Day on the water. They snorkeled and Sandi and I dove Power House. What a great dive! A good size turtle seemed happy to swim with just two friendly women not chasing him with a camera. Then a Spotted Moray thought we should be patrolled for a little while. All the while two barracuda’s accompanied us out and back.

Under the boat Sandi spotted a huge, Green Moray in the rock pile. Deb says he is about 8 feet long. I do not doubt that. His head is at least a foot high. When he opens his mouth (I think of it as hissing at me) he is huge. What a profile! His tail alone was intimidating. I did not pull it either.

We closed the day with a dinner at Island Thyme and showing our pictures of Coconut Shrimp and Chef John. You have to buy a cookbook though to see the pictures. It should be out in October as I understand it.
Of course we drank and partied far too hard for our own good.

As we turned out the lights Sandi said, from her little bed on the couch, what a great day it was. It felt like a Walton’s good night, it was such a great day.

Then Sunday has to happen. Sandi left. The washer was pronounced deceased by Lucien. Maria moved out of the Mt. Pleasant as the new owners come to take over. It was hot, the weather was here and I still wasn’t beautiful. And it wasn’t noon yet. I took a nap but it was fitful.

When all was said and done, Sunday wasn’t all that bad. It’s all relative. No one can take Saturday away from me or Sandi. It was as good as a day gets.

Chicken Quiet

Monday, June 27, 2005

This morning I was up early..not because I wanted to shoot pictures with the thunder heads as I didn’t know they were there really, but I knew I had to go. Nor was it because I’d slept poorly. I had less sleep than one gets in a Coach seat to Australia actually. Something made me very restless. I guess it was dreams of a washing machine...

Anyway, long story short, after I napped from 4 am when the thunderstorm hit to when my alarm went off, I got up and heard the "peeps". The peeps are the baby chickens in the yard this month. One hen must have 10 or so, I cannot count them they are so busy. Another hen has 5 adolescents..I can count them.

I was on the deck sipping my coffee wondering where the train was that hit me when the entire yard got still. Two roosters were on the wall and the peeps...all 15 or so of them and the hens stopped in their tracks. They didn’t move a muscle or say a peep, literally.

A grey heron was in the yard and he was not a regular, not invited and not wanted. Everyone stopped pecking for this bird trespasser. The roosters were waiting to pounce...which seems rather unselfish for a rooster actually.

I saw a Kestrel fly over the other morning and the hens circled the peep wagon like no one’s business and ran around like chickens with their heads cut off. I guess if you move around really quickly the Kestrel can’t get you as easily if you wait there to be taken. If only our human mothers could do the same with their teenagers...but I digress.

This morning though, everything stood stock still for minutes. I went in for my camera, but the animal kingdom did it’s job and the shoot was over when I got back.

Heron in the yard

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Flying Osprey

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But when all was said and done I still had cow pies, donkey crap and chicken ...stuff all over the yard. But the sand burrs are calming down for free. I have all these peeps that think I am grandma, Loppy still comes around like a clock and Bossie, or whatever Herbert calls his cow..well the farm girl in me still loves it all. I could hear my dad saying, "Michele, water the stock, it’s hot out and the water’s low".

Salt Cay. Where else can you dress up like a pretty girl if you want; wear your string bikini if you can; play cowgirl if you like; go diving; take pictures and meet the happiest people on earth.

Good night or bad, I wake up blessed and thank my lucky stars I found Salt Cay.

The class (missing is Jameeka, who had graduated already) on the last day of school

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Best friends, LeMel and Trey

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Alexis Been

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Elronique Simmons

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Trey Mohammed

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Tre Chic

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Ashley Been

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LeMel Selver

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School Year Ends With Jameeka Smith’s Graduation

The school year ended June 30, 2005 with the graduation party of Jameeka Smith. Jameeka will now attend school on Grand Turk. She received much praise and numerous awards and gifts.

The balance of the class had to stay in school for the week following Jameeka’s graduation ceremony on Grand Turk the weekend before.

Your intrepid reporter stopped by the school, set up the cameras and let them roll. The class, sans Jameeka sat for a class picture and individual pictures as well. The class, together, sang the Salt Cay anthem. Individually, the children were given the opportunity to perform for the video camera, whether a song, song and dance or poem. We all had a fun time.

Meanwhile, the Mary Robinson Primary School was getting a much needed new roof. The entire roof structure was removed to the stone walls and new rafters were being raised upon my departure.

LeMel Selver is now the "senior" student in the school and all the responsibility of being such falls to him. Speeches at the end of school ceremony were pretty weighty, and the sense of pride and responsibility that is instilled in these young people is clearly NOT a mixed message at these events. There is no doubt a lot is expected of these children and that classes past, despite all adversity, have succeeded in life.

Let us hope that the Mary Robinson Primary School does not become a thing of the past. That children are on Salt Cay and living with their families, not shipped to Grand Turk. The question may be is 7th grade too soon for these children to suddenly be transported from Salt Cay to Grand Turk. This is much like leaving Mayberry for Chicago with nothing in between at 12 years of age.

Wouldn’t it be nice if the kids could stay on Salt Cay until they were high school freshmen at least? I spoke with Miss Wilson about this and there has been talk, especially with two talented teachers such as herself and Miss Lowe on island.

When I take pictures of Trey and LeMel, best buddies in the world, and the girls, Elronique, Ashley and Lexie...I cannot imagine never having a picture of yourself, your friends or your family taken. At first I think of the picture I LIKE, then I think, I need to chose the PICTURES THEY WANT and posed for...and print them all. A few of these pictures are included here.....
Faces Of Salt Cay

In my continuing project of capturing the faces of Salt Cay, all faces, the latest shots....
Very young calves at Compass Rose responding to an email on www.cow.com

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The August bride...Pat and Herbert Simmons daughter Lourissa Simmons--she is marrying Constable Garrett

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Mojo man at Island Thyme

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Chef John Jacques, Island Thyme

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The Simple Life

No, this IS NOT about Paris Hilton and her version of the Simple Life. It’s a simple observation on Salt Cay.

Most of us are, or were professional men and women in our US lives. We come to Salt Cay for a simpler way of living and dealing with problems we never meet at home. Or if we do, we have a machine, method, service or employee to take care of it. We might even do something the old fashioned way if forced.

Today I was closing up Marilyn’s house when I chanced to see Headmistress Wilson next door at her parents.

Now Miss Wilson just earned her Master’s Degree In Education Administration I believe it is. She is a very educated and intelligent woman. She lives with Lucy and Sammy Simmons in the South District. This old house raised 12 children, including the Headmistress.

I watched this morning as she hand scrubbed a throw rug on the wall cap between the houses. Using PineSol, a brush and going to the barrel of water under the downspout to get a small pail of water and work it, work it.
She was not in her smart suit or school uniform, but a simple dress that had seen better times. She still looked better than me in my ratty t-shirt and maxed out shorts. Miss Wilson must have spent 20 minutes carefully washing and rinsing this rug, like a labor of love.

Or maybe it was just time to do something simple and reflect upon the past school year. This was her private time.

As I enjoy my new washing machine today, and a pile of easily cleaned clothes, towels and sheets, I reflect upon how difficult the simple act of keeping clean in a drought prone island must have been. An island where there is no running water in many homes. Where once you needed to go to the White House to get a pail of water and carry it home on your head just to have water for breakfast. Or, take your clothes to the stone wells up north and do your laundry.

I think I want to be a simpler, happier person when I am home in California, not just on Salt Cay. But, I won’t give up my new washer and certainly not my air conditioning.

Drag Queen Performs At Island Thyme
Bubbles, entertaining the crowd at Island Thyme

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Dressed like Dame Edna, "Bubbles" arrived at Island Thyme, billed as being direct from Finocchios in San Francisco’s North Beach.

Engaged, so we say, for the evening, Bubbles was here to perform for the Marine Biology students camped out on Salt Cay for several days of research.

Now this is a small island. And there are some conservative people and this was a little more than daring. But it seemed a practiced, shall we say daring.

The most interesting part of this is: guess who Bubbles is? Study these photographs carefully. Keep thinking, keep thinking.....ok, now you have to read the entire Blog to know who Bubbles really is....
Bubbles...the fake and in the back, pretty much the real thing

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Bubbles' backside

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It was a lively evening once again at Porter’s. Bubbles was an hour late and the crowd started to get restless as we presume Bubbles talked "herself" to the floor.

Salt Cay Saturday night. Make your own entertainment....Now that’s another story.
Oral History Project: Salt Cay Saturday Nights

During this trip I made a concentrated effort to take the oral history of some of our oldest citizens. I wanted something, anything, that left the impression of who these people were and what they wanted to say.One of the common threads was how they entertained themselves.

Miss Mabel Wilson is Gerty Landy’s mother. She and her sister Kathryn were the entertainers. They sang, danced, did skits, duets, solos, charades and vignettes from musicals. Miss Mabel was the wife of the leading lay person in St. John’s, the Catechrist...like Poley Dickenson is today.

Miss Mabel is now almost 90 years old and quite frail. I was invited into her home to video and photograph her. Though her memory has failed, the impish look of the entertainer is still there, as is the entertainer herself. With a little prompting from Gerty, Miss Mabel sang the entire song "There’s A Hole In My Bucket" for the camera.

The sound of applause from those in the room brought a smile to her face and I hope for a moment, she felt young again and on the stage of Salt Cay. I have not been that moved in a long time.
Miss Mabel Wilson

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Lillian and Ned Kennedy at home

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I interviewed Ned and Lillian Kennedy at their home near the airport. Ned has a remarkable memory for a man 90 years of age. Though he was often at sea as a Merchant Marine, when he was home he took an active part in the life of Salt Cay.

Ned played in the cricket matches and loved the entertainment and immediately brought up Miss Mabel and her sister. Salt Cay had the best musicians and band in the whole area. Cricket matches lasted for days and they competed against the other islands. The team was mixed race as there were not enough white’s to compete alone.

Miss Mabel had described Ned as a good boy when they grew up, though he had no mother and father to raise him.

When he worked in the salt, he made 2 shilling, 6 pence a day...56 cents.

Ned’s message to the future is to be decent and obedient, especially the youngsters. To be dutiful to your family and your elders. Respect.

Miss Lillian told me how she went to private school. Her parents were very strict and she was not allowed to watch the filming of "Bahama Passage" or be in the movie as an extra. Ned was in some scenes and hung around a lot.
Miss Lillian said the girls played basketball. They all loved it and played all they could.

Ned said I had to meet Georgie Selver as he was a "talker". I had used 1 ½ tapes and most of two batteries with Ned. Ned said I should be sure to take more tape for Georgie.

Georgie Selver

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Georgie is Alice Selver’s husband and they live across the street from Netty’s Store. The building was, at one time, Georgie’s grandfather’s house. He was a man who came to Salt Cay as an interpreter as he spoke 7 languages. Anthony Lewelyn Seymour. He became a merchant, and their home was once the store. He was from Bermuda and South Caicos. He had salt ponds and was very "middle class" for a man of color.

Georgie is now blind from aging and illness.

Alice was in the store/house during the 1945 hurricane, and the roof started to come off. She took her step-son out of the building and they hid under the wall in the dark for hours to avoid the storm.

Georgie was on a banana boat from Nassau to Haiti when the storm hit. They saw it swirling around Salt Cay.

Georgie said that when Salt Cay was "in shape" it was ahead of South Caicos and Grand Turk–especially with the bands. Georgie said they took goat skin and made drums. Bamboo was used to fashion horns. They made their own music with what they had.

Islanders worked in the salt from when the sun cleared the hill to when the sun set and you earned your 2 shillings 6 pence. Georgie said "your feet better be in the salt when the sun cleared the hill". Going to sea was a better option. So, like Ned, with a family to feed he joined the Merchant Marines and traveled on oil tankers through the Middle East.

Before that, during the war, he worked on sailing ships going from Nassau to Haiti and through the TCI’s. Brown sugar was needed by the Pepsi and Coca Cola plants in Nassau to make soft drinks. Granulated sugar was rationed, and unavailable, but the need for soft drinks was still great.

Georgie is quite the talker as Ned predicted and it was an interesting time
.
Running out of free tape and time, I was at Marilyn’s and Sammy and Ma Lucy Simmons were on their front stoop. Sammy was more than happy to get his accordion out and play for me.

I was amazed at Sammy and Lucy’s memories and stories. Lucy was the teacher at one time. Sammy had the largest mule on the island and the best and strongest cart.

They had 13 children, the first, Dorothy, died 2 weeks after her birth. They raised all the children in the house they live in now. Sammy was born in the ruin that fronts Mike and Marilyn James’ property on Victoria.

Sammy’s first accordion came to him from his sister in New York and it cost $5.90. Can you imagine how much effort went into getting it to Salt Cay? He taught himself to play it. Most men played "1 key" accordion, but he taught himself "2 key" and that made way better music. He won accordion contests, and the older men who played weren’t hired in favor of Sammy.

Salt Cay had the best band in the islands, bar none. Just like Georgie said.

Miss Ella Hamilton told me she has no picture of her late husband. Nothing, not even a wedding picture. No one had a camera and the one’s who did "didn’t take pictures of us". They barely had money to put food on the table so a camera, or a picture, was out of the question. Again I heard "2 shillings, 6 pence a day". And again, life was filled with the entertainment you made, your church and your family.

So, here we are on Salt Cay with our DVD’s, computers, DirectTV satelite dishes and CD’s, and trying to entertain ourselves or our kids. But, when times were hard, the entertainment flowed. Men like Sammy Simmons taught themselves to play the accordion without any lessons, books, tapes or help. It was in their minds and flowed out of them naturally.

The Jetty at Dunscombe Point

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There is just so much richness out here on Salt Cay. I’m about to head out and look at the stars one more time before I go. I turned on the TV for a minute after seeing the "Bubbles" show and realized it just didn’t interest me. I haven’t really watched TV and the one movie I watched, well, I fell asleep. A good book is calling my name, as is my pillow. I have not one clue what is going on in the world and I think they are getting along without my input.

And I am writing. I cannot write at home most of the time. There is too much buzzing going on, too much "noise" in the air...let’s face it, the air boils at home compared to Salt Cay.

I hope you enjoy this blog and that you have the opportunity to read my article in Times Of The Islands, Summer 2005.

May I suggest to my faithful readers, and many of you already do this: Stop and meet someone here on Salt Cay. Ask questions and listen to the heritage that makes our island so unique in the tourist world. We are a tourist destination and things will change whether we like it or not sooner than we like.

Right now Rock Talbot (Netty’s husband) is seriously ill in Nassau. He may well not come home. And time marches on here, picking people off one at a time.
We need to talk to folks, give them a ride, respect them, listen and learn about this little place in the sun we call home. There are few children to listen to the past and these people need someone to listen.

Bernard and Uncle Lou at The Flash

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Planes, Trains and Donkey Carts

When traveling to and from Salt Cay on AirTAC, one has to be flexible, resourceful and firm.


I myself experienced the less than easy trip home. The only mode of transportation I did NOT take was a donkey cart or train.

I was all cleaned up and ready to go at 9:30 when I discovered I couldn't find my house keys. The original keys that open everything.

Positive in my senility, I even opened up the bolted and screwed closed garage to check in there. I knew I'd seen them but where? I'd only been up since 5 am cleaning, closing..you know, all those fun things one does before locking the door and leaving for months. I was totally sweat soaked again, another shower helped a little. My mood was swinging south...

Then Zoltan, the Hungarian Divemaster, calls on the radio to say he's coming to get me as I am "taking boat to Grand Turk" No details. Candy shows up in her cart to take me somewhere thinking airport--Zoltan finds us midway in the truck and I go to the dock.

It seems I am going to GDT on Splash, a V-hull dive boat. No Air Turks and Caicos as all they hav, supposedly, is the King Air and that can't land on Salt Cay...I'm stuck. I'm getting my grandson Dallas and cannot miss this plane.

They can't be bothered to come to Salt Cay to pick up a reserved, confirmed, reconfirmed passenger. Deb says they're holding the plane in Grand Turk for me—right, and donkey's will fly me to GDT too right?

A 45 minute boat ride later, AirTAC is waiting on the dock for me...nice lady...plane isn't even there yet and it is 45 minutes late.

I go inside to check in and they want me to pay overage on my luggage as I have my washing machine motor with me (everyone travels with a spare, right?)
I was polite, but firm, that I wasn't paying money when I just rode in an open boat to GDT and not a plane, etc.. Then she says "Well you may not get to Provo any time soon". I was about to loose it when the SkyCap says the plane is 5 minutes out..and it was. Gate agent/Skycap/Gate agent/Skycap....who do you believe now?

I got to Provo in time to check in, change my salt encrusted shirt, run a brush through the fright wig on my head and go to the gate...only to be paged to security. They don't see many washing machine motors taped down to the bottom of ice chests I guess. Had to go through security again since no one was there to watch my bags for me.

We finally got to Miami and of course the lines were long and slow...and no luggage carts as there are so many people. So I am dragging my ice chest on the floor, got my camera gear back pack, the roller bag carryon, and my checked bag with rollers and that rat bastard at Ag points for me to go through that long line for inspection...like I don't have enough problems, he needs to send me on an errand with no luggage cart. I say nothing as I do not have 45 minutes to explain my bad attitude, nasty disposition and bad humor to some even more humorless Customs supervisor in a little room off the Ag station.

So no time for a shower in Miami and I really, really needed it...I didn't even have time for a drink, which I really, really needed, of anything! I had to get to the next gate, through Security again. Everything ran like a clock until the last flight in Dallas/Ft. Worth where we had to wait for the flight attendant to arrive. By then, I didn't want a drink, or a shower in any Admiral's Club, I just wanted my own shower, my own bed.

I did learn though that no amount of internal effort can make a boat go faster than it can, make AirTAC show up as they should or anything else out of my control. You'd think at 54 I'd learn that once and for all...maybe this time it will set better.

The moral of the story is remain flexible at all times, be ready an hour before it's time to go to the SLX airport and try not to lose your sense of humor.
I will write AirTAC and let them know of my wonderful experience on their scheduled airline. I’ll send them a reminder of the other adventures created not by planes that cough, go through fences or tails hitting runways. But, by promises made and broken...planes that do not show up because they don't feel like coming to Salt Cay for one person. If they want to do cost cutting, I am going to do revenue cutting.

I think from now on, I'm going to bite the bullet when traveling loaded with dog, luggage and husband and go Global charter. And I'll take any strays that want to pay me a little share for a seat if there's room...just to take the business from AirTAC.

Ultimately though, whether it is a smooth trip home, or like this one, a side trip through Hell, the time on Salt Cay is worth every minute of inconvenience going or coming. I met people on the island I'd never met; talked for hours with Ned and Lillian Kennedy; heard Miss Mabel sing a song for my camera; and Sammy and Ma Lucy talk like I've never heard them talk before. And a couple tunes from Sammy too.

So much richness, so little time.

St. John's Church Cross

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Dunscombe Point looking south

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Fishing Tournament

The big to do was the fishing tournament based out of Grand Turk in June. Uncle Lionel, Clyde and Jeff headed up the Salt Cay entry.

I don’t know which was bigger, the betting pool or the prize money, but it was all a big deal.

Clyde looked like a tomato on Saturday night, I know I saw it. You could have read a book at night by the glow from his face.

Seems they caught a huge Wahoo and could have won the entire tournament on Sunday. But, the call of the Wahoo was too great, and they didn’t want to turn the fish over to the tournament. So they showed him off and took him home to Salt Cay and, in true island style, ate him.

Hard to win a fishing tournament and eat the trophy too I guess.

Anyway, this tournament had every major fishing affishanado out in their best boats. The favorite actually hit a coral head and wound up out of the hunt, literally. Some of the Provo folks, including Art Pickering and his group, came to Salt Cay to rest and rehab after the tournament. Though rehab is probably the wrong word.
Art Pickering of Provo Turtle Divers...one of the fishing tournament competitors and post-tournament visitors

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BEET FUTURES AND OTHER COMMODITIES

As you all know, I do tend to follow the Salt Cay Futures and Commodities Exchange as best I can. Sometimes Salt Cay involves Grand Turk and Provo futures indexes as well. It just depends upon the commodity and the time of year. We usually have lots of salt and little else.

Anyway. We had dinner at Miss Pat’s the other night. Marilyn and her pals, Deb and I. Miss Pat served beets in honor of Marilyn. Frankly I think it is because beet futures are now depressed and Grand Turk has more canned beets than they anticipated.

Let’s face it, I follow beets now. The 99 Cent Store is packed with beets as is the Dollar Tree at 2 for $1. This tells me that Mike and Mo aren’t eatin’ enough beets. And when they start showing up at restaurant tables, well, clearly beets are depressed.

Of course I always report on the futures, as perceived by the Salt Cay Futures and Commodities Exchange on other areas of interest and we have the following observations:

Ants are not depressed. In fact ants are at an all time high here. However, their futures are in limbo if you are on island and have the proper treatment.

Boric Acid futures are strong given the ants. Though they seem to be developing a taste for Boric Acid with any form of sugar.

Diazanon is strong if you have it given the ant situation.

Sand Flea futures are weak, fortunately, as are topical ointments. This reporter’s research project on sand flea bite relief is now delayed by at least 6 months. My ankle futures are high and happy though.

Palmetto futures are mixed at the moment as I haven’t bug bombed the house.

Mosquito futures, despite all the rain, are weak. Haven’t seen or heard one yet but that could change in a moment.

Beef (not beet) futures are stable as there must be at least 6 or 7 brand new calves.

Water futures are stable at the moment if you have a strong cistern and some DR tanks. Water futures were strong a week ago when the rain stopped. Demand was looking good. Now, if you’re not on the "water meter" map plan, your future for government water is crap. Pray for rain.

Wind futures are strong given the hurricane season to date.

Roof futures are hopefully stable.

Property futures are stronger than ever. If you have no plans to sell they remain stable with a strong future.

And as for beets....sell, sell, sell and buy them at the Dollar Tree if you like them.

WARNING: Salt Cay Futures are not traded publicly and fluctuate depending upon prevailing trade winds, time of day, who is on island and what the boat brought.


Marilyn, Shannon and Lu prepare to depart Salt Cay International Airport and Tire Care Center

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Comings And Goings

Marilyn, came and went.
I came before Marilyn and left after her.
George and Lisa Kane arrived as I was packing to leave;
Some guests were on island.
Our guests came and went.
Clyde was here with his son.
The fishing tournament was here.
Porter finally left for home, being on island since October. It was that or shoot him.
Everyone else stayed home, on island.
Pretty exciting stuff.




Bubbles= Clyde Schultz...yes Clyde...you know, from San Francisco? Clyde?

Wednesday, May 04, 2005

Cindi sent me another picture--count 'em FOUR whales!

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SPRING EDITION UPDATED!

MORE WHALES!

Cindi's whale shot got such good comments, I asked her to send me one more--and she did. There are four whales in this shot. Now we know why this is the Humpback Highway! I've seen a few whales, but this is amazing stuff.

Never stay home during whale season. At least go snorkeling!

Tuesday, May 03, 2005

SPRING EDITION

Despite not being on island, the Spring Edition is here and features reports from two contributors. The high life on Salt Cay is winding down after a smashing high season...but regular life goes on and so does the news.....
Note there are 3 whales in this picture--the left one, the one at the top edge and the tail on the right. Great picture.

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WHALE!!!!!!

BY CINDI ROBERTSON

Cindi and Bob Robertson contributed this first piece with one of the best whale photos I have seen from Salt Cay. Thank you much.

March 2005: This was our third scuba diving trip to Salt Cay. Having already dove the wreck of the Endymion twice before, Debbie of Salt Cay divers, suggested that we go along and just snorkel.

After all the other divers got in the water to do their dive, Bob and I began paddling around the dive boat. Ollie yelled to us: "WHALES!" and he began to point us in the direction we needed to be for an encounter. Well, by the time we got to the spot, the whales were gone. So, we continued to paddle around the wreck site. Once again, Ollie yelled: "WHALES!" and once again Bob and I quietly paddled in the direction Ollie was pointing. We were about 200 yards or so, away from the boat, in 40-50 feet of water.

I looked, and couldn't believe my eyes! In front of us, about 10 feet away was a pod of 8 Humpback Whales! They were gently cruising past.......and smiling. (see photo). One of the whales came up to take a breath and I thought I would die! I've never heard a sound like that! It was as if somebody opened a steam valve underwater!! Ollie said later that we were so close when the whale came up he thought one of us would ride the whale! When Bob and I returned to the boat, we didn't want to say anything because we didn't want the other divers to feel bad.......but Ollie told them! They had no idea the whales were that close.
Well, as we began motoring back to Salt Cay, whales were spotted again. Ollie was able to get the big boat in close enough for EVERYBODY to quietly and gently get in the water. We all saw a Mother Humpback and her calf as well as a 'teenager'. 3 whales in total.

After returning to the boat, all excited, Ollie motored back to Salt Cay.....only to once again, see more whales. Once again, EVERYBODY quietly and gently got into the water and once again we snorkeled with 3 more whales. We all took photos and returned to the boat. On our way back to Salt Cay, once again, we saw more whales! EVERYBODY got back into the water to see 3 more whales!!!! So for the entire group we had the opportunity to snorkel with 9 different Humpback whales and for Bob and I it was a total of 17 WHALES IN ONE AFTERNOON! This is a moment we will never forget.



Contributing Editor Wendy Bateson enjoyed her time on Salt Cay this winter taking pictures of the Islanders. The philosophy of this blog is that one can never have too many pictures of people, nor can you have too much about the people of Salt Cay..it enriches our lives and makes us in our regular, daily lives, long for our time on Salt Cay.

FACES OF SALT CAY

BY WENDY BATESON

These three children, LeMeal, Elronique and Tree were the only ones who showed up for Henry's Saturday afternoon baseball game. Consequently, my husband (Simon-Mike) ended up as the catcher for a while, and having a UK childhood, this was the first time that he had ever participated in anything like baseball/softball!! We'vedecided that a career in major league baseball is not an option. Henrypitched, and Nurse-Mike covered all bases, plus the outfield.
Batter up!

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Uncle Lou is shown here peddling his way to the school for a rehearsal of the Easter services where he was going to be singing.
Uncle Lou keeps on peddaling

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Young baseball fan--they start young in the DR

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This little girl, Fillamin’s (pardon the spelling--working on the name) daughter, came to the cricket field for the ball game with Metten, Joan and Abel.

SALT CAY DAYS

The last weekend of April marked Salt Cay Days on our little island. My capable, but tired reporter, Debbie Manos, reported there were approximately 300 people on island for the weekend. Island Thyme, The Coral Reef and The Green Flash did booming a booming business in beer apparently with some of the partying going all night.

Morris’ granddaughter won the Little Miss Salt Cay award.

There is some hope that Salt Cay Days will move to Grand Turk next year given the mounds of refuse from such an event. But overall, it was a great success with no known fights, the usual bicycle races and demolition derby, and fun had by all.
This photo of the salt ponds was taken in about 1998. Island Thyme is being built and the Methodist Church is not repainted/rehabbed yet. I love this picture. Think about the fact that the wood is at least 40-50 years old...the salinas and ponds haven’t been worked on since they closed. This is all mortise and tenon–there are no screws or nails used–just wood to hold it together. And it sits in brackish water all the time.
Salt pond history. Looking north to the Methodist Church

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ORAL HISTORY PROJECT

In an email from Nigel Sadler of the Museum and in the latest Times Of The Islands, it appears that an oral history project will be started this summer in the islands. Nigel said they will be sending out two teams to video Islanders on Salt Cay, as well as the other islands and have the proper equipment to do a professional oral history.

By the way, Times Of The Islands is available online if you don’t get a subscription. Go to http://www.timespub.tc/index.htm . There is a great article on charts and maps, butterflies and the laying out of Provo, this month.

Let’s hope they do get to Salt Cay soon as it is so important that the history Ned, Lilly, and some of the really old folks on Salt Cay possess is not lost before it is recorded.
Evening at The Compass Rose Cottage deck–full moon on the water, looking over the old South Cemetery
Moonrise over Cemetery Beach

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ODDS AND ENDS

There isn’t much else to report at the moment. Your erstwhile reporter will be on island the last two weeks of June and hopefully will dig up some good stories, news and events to report and photograph. I will throw in a few photographs of folks and places for memory’s sake.
Mike DeNegris after a good dive

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Here’s Diver Mike last year–before he ran off to the airlines to make a real living...
And Valentine, last spring, while so young and cute.....
Valentine at Miss Netty's

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The Green Flash at sunset...this one really makes me ache to go back.
The Green Flash at sunset...waiting for that speck of green.

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